Oris have been making wristwatches in Hölstein Switzerland since 1904. They’ve been responsible for some iconic designs throughout that time, of note is the big crown pilots watch introduced in 1938 and of course the feature watch of this post (introduced in the same year), the pointer, which as the name suggests uses a hand to point to the date which is written around the periphery of the watches dial. This ladies example recently came in for a new crystal and a service and it typifies Oris’s pointer series of watches with its guilloche type ring beneath the numerals, it’s cathedral hands and crescent style date pointer hand.
The rear view is just as appealing with its display back and red rotor.
With the movement removed the hands are all lined up ready to be removed.
With the hands and dial removed you can now see the novel way the 4th pointer hand is driven. Some pointer movements drive the hand in the traditional way using a series of gears to drive a central wheel, this little ETA 2688 movement utilises a traditional calendar ring which drives a plate connected to a central wheel. As there’s no other calendar day or month display to be obstructed it can afford to use this novel technique.
With the plate removed it looks a little more recognisable.
The watch with all the calendar side components and keyless work removed.
The motion work ready to be stripped, here the ratchet wheels and autowind bridge have been removed.
And the watch is fully stripped and ready for cleaning and inspection.
These ladies movements are on a scale that much smaller than a one from a gents watch, for comparison I’ve placed a one pound coin next to the components.
Once the components are clean the first thing I reinstall regardless of the movement is the top balance jewel and cap, it’s ready for the spring to be pressed in place here.
The motion work back together.
The autowind bridge reassembled and fitted with the movement ticking away nicely.
The calendar side nearly done.
…. and hands fitted.
Which means I can now turn my attention to the crystal, here the “onion” bezel is off ready for the crystals removal. All the case components are then ultrasonically cleaned.
The new and the old.
Nothing, and I mean nothing lifts a watch like a new crystal.
And here it is completed, an iconic piece I think you’ll agree.