Panerai PAM 90

I completed this unusual job (all will be revealed later) over a year ago and have been meaning to post about it ever since, stumbling across the photographs on my hard drive the other day means I’ve now finally got it done! The watch, a Panerai PAM90 was bought for the owner by his wife as a wedding present 11 years ago. It came brand new from a dealer and as such was box fresh! After the intervening years he found he wasn’t wearing the watch as much as he’d like to, so as it was a watch that would never be sold he set about giving it a little makeover. The watch arrived here for me to strip the case and return it to the owner then service the movement. Meanwhile the owner was planning something special with the case! 🙂

Panerai PAM90

The first job for me was to strip the case so here’s a view of the caseback before I get going.

Panerai PAM90

The movement is held in place with a couple of clamps.

Panerai PAM90

Undo those, remove the crown guard, withdraw the stem and out she pops.

Panerai PAM90

I removed the bezel and crystal and the parts photographed were the ones that were returned to the owner for further treatment.

Panerai PAM90

This left me to get on with the servicing of the movement. The PAM90 is based on the venerable Valjoux 7750, although with the chronograph functionality removed. It looks a bit odd under the dial but the date corrector is unmistakably Valjoux 7750 so it doesn’t take long to realise what’s been modified.

Panerai PAM90

Once I’d removed the date disk I could then undo the top plate ready for removal.

Panerai PAM90

With the top plate off it’s looking a lot more 7750ish with the date driving wheel and keyless work on show.

Panerai PAM90

With the motion work off you can see the driving wheel canon pinion next to the running seconds pinion.

Panerai PAM90

With the up and down work removed there’s just the keyless work to go and this side is done. Again the keyless work is unmistakably 7750.

Panerai PAM90

That was this side stripped, ready to be turned over.

Panerai PAM90

With the train side uppermost you can see some big differences here between it and the 7750, all the lever work is missing for a start.

Panerai PAM90

I removed the autowind bridge, a relatively simple affair.

Panerai PAM90

After removing the ratchet wheel and upper crown wheel this left balance cock and the train bridge ready for removal

Panerai PAM90

Once I’d removed those the train is now on display.

Panerai PAM90

The parts were then put through the cleaner and inspected.

Panerai PAM90

The rebuild started with the mainspring refitting into the barrel.

Panerai PAM90

The jewels and caps were fitted to the balance and the hairspring checked for concentricity, centering and flatness.

Panerai PAM90

With these out the way the rebuild started, beginning with the train.

Panerai PAM90

The bridge, ratchet wheel and upper crown wheel were next.

Panerai PAM90

The movement was then flipped to rebuild the keyless work.

Panerai PAM90

This allowed me to wind some power into the barrel to get the rough timings done after the pallets and balance were refitted.

Panerai PAM90

The autowind bottom plate and spacer were next to go back.

Panerai PAM90

The movement was then flipped and the under dial work was replaced.

Panerai PAM90

Then the calendar components then completed this side.

Panerai PAM90

Turn the movement back over and fit the autowind components and it’s ready for the dial and hands.

Panerai PAM90

Once these were fitted I had to wait for the case to be returned.

Panerai PAM90

Once the case components arrived it all becomes clear what the owner had in mind!

Panerai PAM90

Panerai PAM90

Panerai PAM90

Panerai PAM90

The case had been off to Viljo Marrandi for some beautiful engraving work. This man is a master of his craft and has much longer waiting lists than even I do 🙂 There was also a new AR coated crystal in the package so that was fitted ready for the movement.

Panerai PAM90

Panerai PAM90

Panerai PAM90

The movement was recased and the rotor fitted.

Panerai PAM90

And I think you’ll agree the result is stunning, the watch has been transformed from one that didn’t get much wrist time to one that’s truly unique and will be worn a lot, the perfect update to a watch that will never be sold.

Panerai PAM90

Panerai PAM90

Panerai PAM90

 

 

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