Rolex 16600 Sea Dweller

This Rolex Sea Dweller ref 16600 came in recently for a service and I thought I’d feature it as I love these particular watches, I’ve had one for many years and they are my favourite Rolex sports watch. I’ve had them, sold them, tried¬†vintage Rolex (5513 & 16800) but have always returned to the ref 16600 – there’s just something about them! The one featured is an F from 2004, meaning the serial number starts with the letter F. The various letters denote years of manufacture and this is a handy way of dating your Rolex if your not sure how old it is, however Rolex now uses random serial numbers which just isn’t cricketūüôā

Rolex 16600 Sea Dweller (more…)

Heuer 980.032 full glow dial

This quartz Heuer came in recently for a movement service. I see quite a few variants of these across the bench but rarely with a full glow¬†dial, and rarely one in such cracking condition as this example. The rotating bezels on these usually are a lot more worn than this one is and dials can so easily become damaged by dead battery cells that have burst inside the watch. This one really is a rare survivor in such great condition! The dial is actually phosphorescent as opposed to lume and the advertising of the time marketed them as “Night diver” watches. The dial will glow for 10 minutes after a 10 second “charge” under a strong light. This model also came in a black case (980.031) and a ladies¬†sized black case (980.030). Powered by the ESA 536.121 quartz movement, it makes it a rock solid reliable performer.

Heuer 980.032 (more…)

Seiko 5717-8990 one button chronograph

This lovely one button chronograph came in recently a little the worst for wear. The 5717-8990 is a 21 jewel, manual wind 18,000bph single button chronograph. The 5717 signifies the movement has a date complication, models of these without a¬†date are powered by the 5719 movement. The 5719 and 5717‚Äôs were brought to market on the back of the¬†1964 summer olympic games in Tokyo where Seiko were the official timekeepers. The early ones had an olympic torch stamped or etched on the caseback, but later ones can be seen with¬†the seahorse design or the standard horseshoe type. There are also versions with the Asian games torch and the Military anchor so there are quite a few variants to choose from.The chap who sent this¬†in received the watch as an engagement present from his fianc√©e in 1965 and the watch had been¬†worn for many years until the pusher was lost and he was told no spares were¬†available for that model anymore. As is usual in these cases the watch was consigned to a drawer for many years until it eventually made its way¬†to me. Superficially the watch isn’t in too bad a shape but obviously the chronograph start/stop/reset button is missing and the crystal’s rather scuffed.

Seiko 5717-8990 (more…)

Grand Seiko J14070 in Stainless Steel

I thought I’d feature this 1962 Grand Seiko that came in recently for a service because I’ve never seen another in stainless steel. As¬†far as I’m aware these were never offered for sale to the public in stainless steel so it’s a bit of a mystery as to why they were manufactured, if you wanted one you had the choice of Gold or if you were lucky and had deep pockets Platinum. There are various theories about whether they were display pieces, working salesman samples or for purchase by Seiko employees. I guess we’ll never know for sure now but what a joy to actually work on one of these! It’s powered by the same calibre 3180,¬†chronometer grade, low beat, 25 jewel movement as it’s precious metal cousins.

Grand Seiko J14070 in Stainless Steel (more…)

Thermidor chronograph calibre 12

This charming Thermidor twin register chronograph came in for a service¬†recently. What’s interesting about this watch is it’s powered by a Calibre 12 movement, the calibre 11 which preceded it¬†was developed by the ‘Chronomatic’ partnership of¬†Heuer, Breitling, Hamilton-Buren and Dubois-Depraz in an attempt to be the first to the market with an automatic winding chronograph. The calibre 11 was revealed to the press¬†on March 3 1969 in press conferences in NewYork and Geneva and was manufactured until about 1973. The calibre 12 was introduced in 1971 and was produced until 1980. The calibre 12 addressed a few of the issues that appeared with the calibre 11’s, modifications included using¬†lighter jumper springs, a weaker mainspring to drive a redesigned date mechanism, some strengthening of various¬†levers and hammers and a faster beat rate of 21,600 as opposed to the cal 11’s 19,800. This Thermidor cased example has a typically bright seventies style dial and handset design, and you can also see one of the cal 11/12’s more striking¬†features, a 9 o’clock crown.

Thermidor chronograph calibre 12 (more…)

Seiko 6159-7001

Hands up all you vintage Seiko dive watch enthusiasts who remember this one? I certainly do, when it appeared on ebay last year I was inundated with requests for information for the duration of the auction! Some people were a bit¬†coy and showed me a few photographs saying they “had the chance of purchasing a¬†6159 diver that was in pieces”, others were more candid and said “this 6159’s on ebay, what do you think?” Looking at the picture below it actually looks quite reasonable, probably in need of a relume you may think.

cb0b6cd7-4662-4608-b1d9-f6c5e766c175a (more…)

Heuer 266.006-1 quartz with Dubios-Depraz 2000 chronograph module

This Heuer 2000 quartz chronograph came in recently for a service, the watch ran¬†with the chronograph running¬†but spluttered to a halt with it disengaged. This particular Heuer is a modular chronograph meaning the movement powers a separate chronograph module fixed on¬†where the dial would usually sit. Modular chrono’s are usually easily identifiable by the crown being below the line of the pushers. This one is powered by a slightly modified ETA 555.282 quartz movement and the chronograph module is a Dubios-Depraz 2000,¬†these¬†find their way into quite a number of manufacturers chronograph models.

Heuer 266.006-1 quartz with Dubios-Depraz 2000 chronograph module (more…)