Lemania HS9 Chronograph calibre 15CHT

This lovely Lemania HS9 came in as a non runner recently for a spot of fettling and a service. These models are known as the HS9 after the engraving on the caseback. HS stands for Hydrographic Supplies (or Services), a government organisation tasked with the procurement of timepieces (and other devices) for the Navy. The 9 is the number of the specification that this watch was made to meet which was a wrist chronograph. Specifications 1 to 8 included normal wristwatches, deck chronometers, pocket watches and so forth. So this model is made for the UK government for issue to the Royal Navy Fleet Air Arm. This one is a silver dialled example but they did come issued with a white dial (with no luminous compound) for use on nuclear submarines and black dialed ones were issued to the RAF. These Lemania models were supplied to many armed forces the world over and are one of the nicest issued military watches in my opinion. It’s powered by the beautiful manual wind, 18,000bpm Lemania 15CHT movement. The dial has everything going for it, it’s Lemania signed with the company logo above, below that is the T – circle logo indicating the luminous compound is tritium based (rather than earlier radium), it has the broad arrow above the 6 denoting it was government property and it doesn’t have the long dash of luminous compound at the six o’clock marker which is sometimes seen. The crown isn’t the original but the style does suit the watch so it’s not too big a deal.

Lemania HS9 calbre 15 CHT (more…)

Happy new year everybody – the start of another one!

Well 2016 is now behind us, thank goodness, it wasn’t a particularly good year on a personal level with accidents, deaths in the family and one thing and another. Unfortunately all this impacted quite severely on my ability to keep this blog updated on a regular basis. Having said that the work has been coming in thick and fast all year so I thought I’d show a little of what’s been across the bench to try and make up for the lack of updates.

I’ve seen quite a lot of vintage Seiko exotica on the bench last year including some early 6159-7000’s.

Seiko 6159-7000 (more…)

Seiko 6138/9 sweep hand issues

Hello everyone! To start with, apologies for the lack of updates over the past few months but it’s been very hectic here on a personal level as well as a business one. Without going into too much detail my parents were involved in quite a serious car crash at the beginning of the summer, my father escaped relatively unscathed but my mother and a passenger weren’t so lucky. Thankfully they’re both back home now but my mother was in hospital for three months and is now having to learn to walk again, which at the age of 80 is going to take some time. As if this wasn’t enough at the beginning of September my partners father suddenly and unexpectedly died, this was a huge shock and taking care of his wife and all the things that a death in the family brings with it has taken some time. I’ve been working seven days a week (when I’ve been home) to try and keep on top of the work queue and things are slowly getting back to normal.

Anyway I thought I’d do a little informational post on something I see on a regular basis and that’s misaligned 6138/9 sweep hands. The bullhead pictured below came in for a movement service but as you can see the sweep hand consistently resets to the 1 second past position which means it’s been fitted incorrectly.

6138-0040 (more…)

Rolex 16600 Sea Dweller

This Rolex Sea Dweller ref 16600 came in recently for a service and I thought I’d feature it as I love these particular watches, I’ve had one for many years and they are my favourite Rolex sports watch. I’ve had them, sold them, tried vintage Rolex (5513 & 16800) but have always returned to the ref 16600 – there’s just something about them! The one featured is an F from 2004, meaning the serial number starts with the letter F. The various letters denote years of manufacture and this is a handy way of dating your Rolex if your not sure how old it is, however Rolex now uses random serial numbers which just isn’t cricket 🙂

Rolex 16600 Sea Dweller (more…)

Heuer 980.032 full glow dial

This quartz Heuer came in recently for a movement service. I see quite a few variants of these across the bench but rarely with a full glow dial, and rarely one in such cracking condition as this example. The rotating bezels on these usually are a lot more worn than this one is and dials can so easily become damaged by dead battery cells that have burst inside the watch. This one really is a rare survivor in such great condition! The dial is actually phosphorescent as opposed to lume and the advertising of the time marketed them as “Night diver” watches. The dial will glow for 10 minutes after a 10 second “charge” under a strong light. This model also came in a black case (980.031) and a ladies sized black case (980.030). Powered by the ESA 536.121 quartz movement, it makes it a rock solid reliable performer.

Heuer 980.032 (more…)

Seiko 5717-8990 one button chronograph

This lovely one button chronograph came in recently a little the worst for wear. The 5717-8990 is a 21 jewel, manual wind 18,000bph single button chronograph. The 5717 signifies the movement has a date complication, models of these without a date are powered by the 5719 movement. The 5719 and 5717’s were brought to market on the back of the 1964 summer olympic games in Tokyo where Seiko were the official timekeepers. The early ones had an olympic torch stamped or etched on the caseback, but later ones can be seen with the seahorse design or the standard horseshoe type. There are also versions with the Asian games torch and the Military anchor so there are quite a few variants to choose from.The chap who sent this in received the watch as an engagement present from his fiancée in 1965 and the watch had been worn for many years until the pusher was lost and he was told no spares were available for that model anymore. As is usual in these cases the watch was consigned to a drawer for many years until it eventually made its way to me. Superficially the watch isn’t in too bad a shape but obviously the chronograph start/stop/reset button is missing and the crystal’s rather scuffed.

Seiko 5717-8990 (more…)