Chronometer

Grand Seiko J14070 in Stainless Steel

I thought I’d feature this 1962 Grand Seiko that came in recently for a service because I’ve never seen another in stainless steel. As far as I’m aware these were never offered for sale to the public in stainless steel so it’s a bit of a mystery as to why they were manufactured, if you wanted one you had the choice of Gold or if you were lucky and had deep pockets Platinum. There are various theories about whether they were display pieces, working salesman samples or for purchase by Seiko employees. I guess we’ll never know for sure now but what a joy to actually work on one of these! It’s powered by the same calibre 3180, chronometer grade, low beat, 25 jewel movement as it’s precious metal cousins.

Grand Seiko J14070 in Stainless Steel (more…)

Seiko Chronometer

This 1972 Seiko 5626-5020 Chronometer came in for refurbishment at the end of last year.

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It’s screams 1970’s from every pore with its TV style dial, chunky case and faceted crystal. It’s powered by the 25 jewel, 28,800bph, calibre 5626a automatic movement. It also has the benefit of manual winding and hacking, the lower grade Seiko movements of the day tended not to have these features. These movements were a step up from the 21,600bph 5606a which normally found their way into Seikos Lord Matic range of watches. The 5625/6a was destined for the King Seiko range which also includes their line of “Superior” Chronometers which were produced at the Suwa plant, and “Special” Chronometers which came from the Daini plant. This particular model isn’t branded a King Seiko, but it is in all but name and has the legend “Chronometer Officially Certified” below the Seiko logo. The 56xx Chronometer was built to a specification of -3/+8spd and was certified by the in-house Seiko chronometer standard testing, the equivalent of the BO (Basel Observatory) Chronometer standard. A nice touch is that these chronometers were serialised with individual numbers engraved on the movement. (more…)

Rolex calibre 2235

A calibre 2235 powered ladies Rolex recently came in for a service with the problem that it “keeps stopping”. Once the back was off it was apparent why it kept stopping as the witness marks made by the rotor dragging on the movement showed.

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The rotors axle had come loose, not enough to come off completely but enough for it to catch the movement and prevent it from turning freely and properly winding the movement. Once the rotor was removed the axle appeared to be in fine fettle with negligible wear so it was restaked back in place. (more…)